FALL/WINTER 2023 FILM
For Autumn-Winter 2023/2024, Barbara Bui is unveiling a very sharp and cut collection, with a British poprock feel. The House’s signature sharp tailoring is at times disrupted by oversized volumes, with an androgynouslook. The iconic pant suit is revealed in a total velvet look, transformed in tones of purple, green and midnightblue, which instantly catch the light.
In a single stroke, the Barbara Bui attitude transcends silhouettes.
Perfectly cut jackets, sensual and sharp, are worn with bootcut pants and silk satin shirts, whose ultra-thin casually knottedlavallieres take on the appearance of cravats in a skillful mix of masculine and feminine. In response to themat velvet, sixties-style trench coats in cracked leather with a slight sheen, as if lacquered, are worn with XXLplatform Mary Janes, perfectly reminiscent of Marianne Faithfull. Jackets with large collars and oversizedlapels transform into genuine pea coats, dandy rock-style. And semi pop art, semi street art geometric designsimprint silhouettes in irreverent style.
The color palette becomes more autumnal: caramel tones come into play and illuminate cord, shades of greywith tawny accents give color to flecked sweaters in Shetland wool. Like a shock, bronze leather tomboypants electrify purple, feather grey and flashy pink looks. Beautiful, perfectly fitted coats literally wrap aroundsilhouettes, like armor. Jackets cut from brushed fabrics, deliberately untreated, bring to life British checksand give consistency to this protective and easy-to-wear daytime wardrobe.
Generous sweaters with largecollars become cocoons. The faux British countryside look is twisted by a clash of materials, omnipresentleather and boyish lines. Colorful cowboy boots, in lizard-style leather, show up impertinently. Printed shirtswith Indian-style floral designs and Paisley-style arabesques frustrate outfits with a strict, ultra-graphiclook. The leather perfecto is back, in an oversized, tomboy version. The fitted trench coat and wraparoundbomber jacket are unveiled this season in sheepskin, creating an unusual look that flirts with a form of masculineclassicism, reinvented in gender fluid-style.
In this twist that breaks the lines, we recognize the hand of the House, straight to the point, almost frontal. Evermore direct, the Barbara Bui style fully embraces its sharp potential this season. To accentuate the intention,looks are faded in black and white, playing with light and shadow. A great way to highlight contrasts in texturesand effects of volume. A powerful coat in woolen fabric, greatcoat-style, opens to reveal an A-line skirt. Boxyjackets are elongated by oversized pleated men’s pants at times enhanced by a metal chain. The daring totalleather look - fitted jacket and flared pants – is a wardrobe must-have. Thin turtleneck sweaters in color jersey,sixties-style, shape busts and contrast with the floatier volumes in the collection. Highly accessorized, this winter’ssilhouette presents mini western buckle belts, shearling thigh boots with rubber heel, small, studded punk bagsand square-toed seventies boots.
For the evening, ultra-sexy is a must. Never half-hearted, Barbara Bui’s eveningwear wardrobe fully embraces its sexiness. Dresses in viscose jersey, both fluid and fragile, are geometrically shaped, revealing the skin with their playful cuts. Electric blue and incandescent red outfits light up the color palette. Jacket sleeves open as ifthey had wings. And there is more jewelry detail: crystal buttons, sequins, pearls... A wide-lapelled tux is wornwith mini-shorts and stilettos with rhinestone straps. Dresses are ultra-slit and jackets are worn directly on theskin, for a fully embraced femininity.